Grafting fruit trees: budding and whip grafting at home
Seed never comes true. How to preserve old farm varieties and grow several varieties on one tree with budding in late summer and whip grafting in winter.
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26 postsSeed never comes true. How to preserve old farm varieties and grow several varieties on one tree with budding in late summer and whip grafting in winter.
GiSelA rootstocks finally make the sweet cherry pickable, and with the right pollinator it bears early. How to plan rootstock, pollination group and spot.
Not the winter but the early blossom is the apricot's risk. With a warm wall, a late-flowering variety and fleece on the frost night, the harvest succeeds here too.
Pears want warmth, flower early and almost always need a pollinator. How to solve the pear puzzle of spot, quince rootstock and a matching second variety.
Planted bare-root in the dormant season, almost any fruit tree establishes better than container stock. How to get spot, planting depth and the planting cut right, step by step.
It is not the variety that sets your fruit tree's size, but the rootstock. What M9, MM106 and seedling mean, and how to choose the right one when buying.
Variety, rootstock and spot decide the flavour, size and yield of your apple tree. How three questions lead you to the tree that fits your garden.
Shortly after flowering, whole shoot tips of the sour cherry wilt and die brown. It looks like late frost but is Monilia blossom blight. How to tell the two apart and why cutting back well into the healthy wood is the key.
Fruit that rots brown on the tree and carries pale spore cushions in rings: brown rot. Why the fungus enters almost only through wounds, why the overwintering mummified fruit is the key, and how to curb the rot without sprays.