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MagazineJuly 4, 2026 · 6 min read · Updated July 5, 2026

Powdery and downy mildew: one loves fine weather, the other wetness

Two diseases, one confusing name: how to tell powdery from downy mildew with a glance at the leaf underside, why one needs fine weather and the other wetness, and how to prevent both with robust varieties and an airy stand.

The Gartenkern team
Garden & editorial
Courgette leaf with the white, floury coating of powdery mildew on the upper leaf surface
Powdery mildew: a white coating on the upper leaf surface that wipes off · Foto: Josef Schlaghecken, CC BY-SA 4.0
Contents

At a glance

  • Powdery and downy mildew are two completely different diseases with confusingly similar names. One loves fine weather, the other wetness.
  • Powdery mildew is the white, floury coating on top of the leaf that you can wipe off. It comes in warm, dry weather, around CW 26 to 38.
  • Downy mildew shows angular yellow spots on top and a grey fungal down on the leaf underside. It needs damp, cool weather and sits firmly inside the leaf.
  • The same foundation helps against both: plant airy, choose robust varieties and remove affected foliage early. Only the watering you handle differently.

Hardly anything in the bed causes as much confusion as mildew. Because behind the one name sit two fundamentally different diseases that behave almost as opposites. Mix them up and you fight the wrong one and wonder why nothing helps.

Yet they can be told apart at a single glance, and that distinction decides the right prevention. Powdery mildew is a fine-weather fungus, downy mildew a foul-weather one. Grasp this contrast and you protect courgette, cucumber and gooseberry precisely, instead of spraying blindly.

Courgette leaf with the white, floury coating of powdery mildew on the upper side
Powdery mildew: white coating on top of the leaf · Photo: Josef Schlaghecken, CC BY-SA 4.0

Two diseases, one confusing name

Powdery mildew is caused by true fungi from the group of sac fungi. It lives on the leaf surface and forms its white web there, which you can wipe off like flour. Because it only colonises the surface, it is easier to catch.

Downy mildew, by contrast, is not a true fungus at all but a water mould, related to the pathogen of late blight. It penetrates the leaf tissue and pushes its down out only on the underside. That is why it cannot be wiped off and is harder to fight from the outside.

How to tell at a glance which one you have

The surest distinction is the leaf underside. Simply turn an affected leaf over.

The quick comparison

  • Powdery mildew: white and on top

    A white, floury coating on the upper leaf side that wipes off. Appears in warm, dry weather. The underside usually stays clear.

  • Downy mildew: spots on top, down beneath

    Angular yellow to brown spots on top, bounded by the leaf veins, with a grey-violet fungal down beneath. Comes in damp, cool weather and does not wipe off.

  • The weather gives it away

    A long fine-weather spell with warm days and damp nights points to powdery mildew. Wet, cold, rainy weather points to downy mildew.

  • The plant gives clues

    Roses, apples, gooseberries and cereals almost always get the powdery kind. Lettuce, onion, basil and grape often suffer the downy one. Cucumber and squash can get either.

Courgette leaf with the first white powdery-mildew spots

Disease profile

Powdery mildew

Erysiphales

Typ
True fungus on the leaf surface
Familie
Attacks many crops, host-specific
Ernte
Loves warm, dry days and damp nights
Saison
Attack window · CW 26 to 38
Wasserbedarf
Prevent: plant airy, robust varieties

Powdery mildew: the fine-weather fungus

Powdery mildew covers leaves, stalks and sometimes fruit with a white, dusted-looking coating. Contrary to what you might think, it needs no leaf wetness. On the contrary, warm days and damp, dewy nights are enough for it, while rain tends to slow it. That is why it often appears in high and late summer after longer fine-weather spells.

Act early and you keep it small. The first tiny white spots are the best moment to remove affected leaves and give the plant more air.

Downy mildew: the foul-weather fungus

Downy mildew is the opposite: it needs wetness and mild to cool weather. After rainy spells it breaks out and can spread at breakneck speed, especially on cucumber, lettuce and grape. Because it sits inside the leaf, prevention matters even more here than with the powdery kind.

Cucumber leaf with angular yellow downy-mildew spots between the veins
Downy mildew on cucumber: angular yellow spots on top, the grey down sits beneath. These spots cannot be wiped off.· Photo: Wee Hong, CC BY-SA 4.0

The one sure test

If you are unsure, turn the leaf over and wipe a finger across the upper side. If the white coating wipes off and the underside is clean, it is the powdery kind. If firm spots stay on top and a grey down sits beneath, it is the downy one. This single movement saves you the mix-up.

How to prevent both

  1. Plant robust varieties

    The most effective measure. There are mildew-tolerant cucumbers and courgettes and resistant gooseberries such as Gooseberry 'Invicta'. They fall ill noticeably later and more mildly.

  2. Plant airy and with spacing

    Give the plants room so the foliage dries quickly after dew and rain. Dense, damp stands are a paradise for both kinds of mildew.

  3. Against the downy kind: keep foliage dry

    Water from below at the root, never over the leaves, and best in the morning. Dry leaves take the base away from downy mildew.

  4. Feed in balance

    Avoid a nitrogen surplus. Lush, soft foliage is especially susceptible. Moderate feeding makes the plant more resistant.

  5. Remove affected leaves early

    Cut out the first affected leaves at once and put them in the residual waste, not on the compost. That slows the spread before it gets going.

  6. Keep the rotation

    Do not grow susceptible crops in the same spot year after year. Downy mildew can survive on plant debris and in the soil.

How to lower the risk for good

  • Watch the variety label

    Look for notes like mildew-tolerant or resistant when you buy. With cucumber, courgette, gooseberry and grape, the choice of variety makes the biggest difference.

  • Water in the morning, not the evening

    Watering in the morning gives the foliage all day to dry. Evening watering keeps the leaves damp overnight, a starting gun for downy mildew.

  • Do not think in monoculture

    Mix crops and keep your distance from already affected beds. Every pathogen is specialised on certain hosts, so diversity slows it down.

  • Strengthen the plant

    Strong, well-supplied plants defend themselves better. Even watering and a good spot are half the prevention.

White and wipeable on top is the powdery kind, spots on top and down beneath the downy one. First identify, then act.

The core rule on mildew

Home remedies and sulphur with a sense of proportion

Against powdery mildew, wettable sulphur is available and approved and works as a preventive. As a gentle home remedy, a spray of skimmed milk and water at roughly one to nine is common, but its effect is limited and purely preventive. Against downy mildew such remedies barely help; here only prevention through dry foliage and robust varieties counts.

Frequently asked questions

How do I reliably tell powdery from downy mildew?

Fastest via the leaf underside. Powdery mildew forms a white, wipeable coating on top, the underside stays clean. Downy mildew makes angular spots on top and a grey fungal down beneath that does not wipe off.

Can I still eat vegetables with mildew?

Yes. The mildew sits on the foliage, the fruit stays edible. Just wash cucumbers, courgettes and the like. Only heavily affected, wilting plants yield little more, and then a fresh start beats the rescue.

Why does powdery mildew often come only in late summer?

Because warm days and damp, dew-rich nights suit it best. That combination is typical of high and late summer. Courgette and squash get it almost every year once the nights turn cooler and damper.

Does the milk spray really help against mildew?

Only to a limited degree and only against powdery mildew, as a preventive on still-healthy leaves. As the sole rescue of a heavily affected stand it is no good. Robust varieties and an airy stand work far more reliably.

Do I have to cut off affected leaves?

At the start of an attack, yes, that slows the spread noticeably. Remove the first affected leaves and dispose of them in the residual waste. With very heavy attack, cutting helps little, and then it is only about prevention for next year.

Are there really mildew-proof varieties?

Yes, and they are the best protection. With cucumber and courgette, many modern varieties are mildew-tolerant; with the gooseberry there are resistant varieties such as Gooseberry 'Invicta'. They are not spared entirely, but they fall ill much later and more mildly.

Legal note

This article is no substitute for plant-protection advice. Use plant-protection products only if they are approved for the home and allotment garden and for the crop in question, and follow the instructions for use exactly.

Sources

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